HISTORY, ART & HOSPITALITY IN FLORENCE

from medieval to risorgimento, spotlight on two luxury hotels with a rich past

MEDIEVAL

L’ANTICA TORRE, VIA DE’ TORNABUONI No. 1

Situated on the street named after the surname of Lorenzo il Magnifico’s mother, Lucrezia, the medieval tower was built in the mid-13th century by the Guelf Ruggerini family. Over the centuries, there have been a variety of owners, however, the tower remained in the Gianfigliazzi family for several generations and is mentioned in the 17th Canto of Dante’s Inferno about the “Usurers”:

And when, amongst them, looking round I came,

A yellow purse 3 I saw with azure wrought,

That wore a lion’s countenance and port.

FOUNDING FATHER & FERRAGAMO

The plaque that cites the tower’s reference in The Divine Comedy sits to the right of the entrance paying tribute to the founding father of the Italian language. Fashionistas who step on to via Tornabuoni may not even notice the epigraph as they may quickly get distracted by the illustrious high-end Ferragamo boutique right across the street. Large windows display both the latest styles and iconic shoe designs by Salvatore Ferragamo. The street is chockful of luxury brands to the left and Santa Maria Trinita’ Piazza to the right.

In its current reincarnation, this historic mansion owned by a family for centuries, boasts exceptional design, breathtaking views of the city, sumptuous furnishings and Tuscan culinary fare at its best. “The Antica Torre Tornabuoni was born in 2001,” says general manager, Maria Rita Bellini. “The family decided it was time to open the doors to travellers as had been done in the past. One of their ancestors even welcomed guests of The Grand Tour in the mansion that was once a tower house.”

THE DESIGN INSPIRATION

Designer Angelica Frescobaldi worked closely with the family to execute the vision of the hotel, which combines time-honoured craftsmanship with modernity. “The Tuscan Renaissance tradition is handed down and reinvented,” according to Bellini, noting everything from the classic art and original architecture to the hand-painted walls with vibrant notes of colour. The colour palette of green, brick red and pale pink was inspired by great painters like Ghirlandaio. “Any furniture that doesn’t come from the family or ancestors has been custom-made with an exclusive design which promises the style will not be repeated elsewhere.” Richly hued textiles and rugs complement the wood floors. Silk linen drapes line the tall windows, which bathe the rooms with natural light. “Each room is different, and every time you open the door, it is as if a Tuscan treasure chest opens,” exclaims Bellini. “Some rooms have high ceilings, while others tell the story of roof terraces and beams offering a more intimate atmosphere.” The rooms at the front offer spectacular views of the Arno River.

Bathrooms are quite spacious and finished in Italian marble. After a day of walking, visiting museums, shopping and enjoying long Tuscan meals and the finest red wines I have ever tasted, it is a treat to return to your suite complete with organic skincare and bathroom products where you can rest and refresh for your next outing. Or, you can choose to stay in.

BREATHTAKING VIEWS & ART HISTORY

The Antica Torre has some of the most exceptional views of the city where you can take advantage of the two private, guests-only rooftop terraces and take in the stunning cityscape of the Dome of Santa Maria del Fiore, the hills of Fiesole, the Arno River, Palazzo Vecchio and more. The panoramic rooftop bar is an ideal place to relax and catch a Florentine sunset over the city while sipping the hotel’s signature Sunset cocktail, created by an in-house mixologist. You can also partake in an Italian cocktail lesson and learn how to make your own Negroni or Spritz—perfect for an Italian aperitivo ritual you can enjoy at home.

If you want an in-depth and comprehensive private tour of iconic sites around Florence unveiling its rich history, art and culture, the hotel works closely with some of the city’s most knowledgeable and respected city guides. An hour-long tour from L’Antica Torre to Santa Maria Novella Basilica lasted two hours as our passionate and knowledgeable guide Lucia Montuschi, founder of Exclusive Connection, shared her love and profound insights of the city she proudly calls home.

A stay at L’Antica Torre Tornabuoni often turns guests into return customers. It is no wonder the hotel once again made the Condé Nast 2021 Readers’ Choice Awards Top 10 Places to Stay in Florence List. “I fell in love with this Tower 13 years ago, a long love affair,” declares Bellini. And she is excited about the new developments slated for next year, which include the relaunch of the restaurant next April with a new menu and chef, as well as a Walking Tour of Florence at sunrise when the city is just waking up.

If you have Florence in your travel plans in 2022, book a few nights here and be prepared to be dazzled by the beautiful blend of Renaissance art and high-end hospitality, where guests enjoy a sense of timeless elegance set against a magnificent backdrop of Italian architecture and mesmerizing vistas.

RISORGIMENTO

DIMORA PALANCA, VIA DELLA SCALA 72

Joining the five-star luxury accommodation roster just this August is an exceptional 19th century villa recently restored in the heart of Florence. Ideal for people who wish to explore the city on foot, the Dimora Palanca is a five-minute walk from the Santa Maria Novella train station and main tram line that connects the city. Flanked by elegant villas and many of Florence’s major landmarks such as the Galleria dell’Accademia and Palazzo Pitti, this property has its own unique story that was honoured, reinterpreted and elevated for art aficionados seeking modern 21st century comforts amidst sleek interiors and punctuated with artfully curated spaces that soothe the soul after a day of sight-seeing.

A LITTLE HISTORY

The location is where the original city walls once stood. Once they were destroyed between 1865 and 1871, wealthy Tuscans and Italians began to construct villas along this strip. “The noble Palanca family from Orbetello in the province of Grossetto were the original property owners, and the villa was designed by architect Giuseppe Poggi,” says Sharon Kilby, creative director of Arthouse PR.

The Palanca family were avid supporters of the arts and, subsequently, the Dimora Palanca became known as a private gallery of sorts and as a hub of artistic activity and social gatherings. This connection to the art world was an important historical aspect to relay in the current design so, seasoned historic renovation collaborators, architect Stefano Viviani and artist Paolo Dovichi worked rigorously to pay tribute to the arts in the restoration. “Within the villa, the original architectural elements have been beautifully restored with many rooms featuring exquisite frescoes and intricate stuccoes. Architect Stefano Viviani has successfully created a modern reflection of Dimora Palanca’s original character,” attests Kilby.

SLEEK & CHIC

The four-floor, 18-suite art hotel hosts a collection of over 50 pieces of contemporary art by the Tuscan artist Dovichi. Inspired by the four elements of earth, water, fire and air, he uses bespoke fabrics like velvet, silk and linen and places them in plexiglass plates on display throughout the property. All common rooms have a theme that is illustrated in the restored frescoes; you just have to look up and discover the original purpose of that particular room. Beyond the art, the interiors are a celebration of modern form and function while seamlessly paying homage to classic 19th century Florentine design features as seen in the millwork, the high ceilings and the natural wood floors in a herringbone pattern. Dark wood panelling contrasts the soothing natural colour palette of cream, white and grey with touches of graphite and charcoal. En-suite bathrooms are spacious and opulent with chromotherapy showers, and the organic bath products made by an artisan Florentine perfumery are a welcome luxury with which to start your day.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEP IN STYLE

The Simmons mattresses and soundproof suites are conducive to a heavenly night of restful sleep despite being in the centre of Florence. The pièce de résistance personally for me is the secret garden which is set between the villa and the original orangery. Considering Dimora Palanca’s central location, I was amazed it also offers this peaceful, private oasis, a tranquil setting where you can enjoy pre-dinner drinks, a light lunch or your morning coffee.

Other common areas include: a chic library, spacious lounge, a bar and morning room. Walking around the hotel, my head kept bobbing from floor to ceiling as I was awestruck at every turn, from the ornate patterned parquet floors to the statement light fixtures that crowned each space. Fans of fine dining will enjoy the surprising and delectable tastings of innovative, Michelin-starred chef Giovanni Cerroni and his team at the Memesi Restaurant, located in the villa’s original kitchen. Cerroni’s unique philosophy honours traditional cuisine with a fresh energy and visionary touch.

The gastronomic odyssey takes place in an inviting dining room and intimate wine cellar. “It has a Downton Abbey feel, yet celebrates Mediterranean style with perfectly orchestrated interpretations of ancient dishes,” says Kilby.

THE ART OF LIVING WELL

Guests can choose from a collection of art-based activities that pay homage to the city’s incredible Renaissance history, including private viewings of art collections or fashion designers’ ateliers. Viticulturalists can enjoy some of Tuscany’s (and beyond) best with a sommelier who offers intimate wine tasting in the hotel’s private wine cellar. You can also tour local vineyards and do some wine tasting around Florence, as well as take a Tuscan cooking class. All activities are arranged by the helpful staff, who also seamlessly address guest requests and handle the details that assure an enjoyable and stress-free stay—the superior customer service truly is second to none.

This is but a glimpse inside two exceptional hotels, each with its own unique story and journey to its present-day glory. The staggering beauty and charm of the Chianti countryside warrants a whole other article.

Whether you returned to Italy in 2021 or decided to wait until next year when perhaps international travel isn’t quite as daunting, during my glorious 22 days in il bel paese, personally, I couldn’t help but notice a heightened optimism in the air. A renewed joie de vivre and appreciation of all that the country offers was palpable. Italians are definitely living some sort of Renaissance as they emerge bright from a dark period. It happily coincided with my first trip to Florence, and in kind, their Renaissance also became mine. Evviva!

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANTICA TORRE TORNABUONI, DIMORA PALANCA AND SILVANA LONGO

From No Tourism to Slow Tourism

Savouring authentic, sustainable travel

Remember that classic ‘60s film, If It’s Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium?

It revolved around the whirlwind nature of those dizzying pre-packaged tours of Europe where you would “visit” as many cities and countries as possible without experiencing them in any real way. Checking off an entire bucket list of destinations from a bus window or quick stopover was never my thing. I have always preferred visiting smaller, obscure places and making connections with people who live there, while absorbing local life and culture. Little did I know this made me an early advocate of the Slow Travel movement—an offshoot of the Slow Food movement, which began in Italy with Carlo Petrini in 1986.

World-Wind Tours whisks American tourists to nine countries in 18 days. The era of whistle stops throughout Europe hopefully is behind us. The If It’s Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium cast on the Spanish Steps in Rome.

What is it and why is it important?

Slow Travel emphasizes connection to local people, cultures, food and music. It relies on the idea that a trip is meant to educate and have an immediate and lasting emotional impact, while remaining sustainable for local communities and the environment.

It had been gaining more attention pre-pandemic in response to the hectic, frantic pace of daily life we were all living. Now, after experiencing interminable lockdowns, easing into this kinder, gentler travel resonates with more people, making it a highly popular way to holiday. A relaxed leisurely type of travel over a fast-paced, manic sightseeing schedule—the pandemic reset has prompted most to re-examine how we live in the world, and given this sustainable and meaningful way of travelling its well-deserved moment in the sun.

Along the Sardinian coast. Photo by Nicola Melis

Since I became travel editor at Panoram in 2019, I have wanted to feature this all-important travel trend. However, the pandemic hit and we were in NO TRAVEL territory for some time. In hindsight, the COVID chapter set the stage for what was to come. We ventured out on local road trips and getaways during the pandemic, appreciating what we have in our own backyard. As we resume planning our trips abroad, we realize transatlantic flights are by no means positive acts for the environment. Yet, we truly can minimize our carbon footprint once we get to our destination by changing the way we travel. By seeking a more sustainable type of holiday, we can recharge our batteries away from bustling cities and chain hotels in favour of a longer, leisurely stay in a more rural setting that also supports a local economy.

“Away from the cities: in the old borghi
there is our future.”
”

— Stefano Boeri, Architect and Urbanist

The appeal of the farmhouse stay in Italy is not new; it is an ever-increasing, desired choice. Imagine combining a remote digital working experience with a holiday in a charming farmhouse in the idyllic Italian countryside—for FREE. It’s not a rural myth. In January of this year, Borgo Office (https://borgo-office.it) launched a free farmhouse stay initiative where guests can buy support packages containing products (food and experiences) from the host’s farm, based on the duration of the stay, no pressure. Sound unfathomable? Out of the 20 regions in Italy, 17 are already participating in this Borgo Office workation initiative, with the bulk of the farmhouses located in Tuscany.

“Presently we have 40 farmhouses and we don’t want to exceed 60, so that we can keep control and have personal and direct relations with all of them,” says Borgo Office project founder, Federico Pisanty. “To qualify for the program, all farmhouses must have a high-quality standard and include powerful wi-fi, printer and scanner and of course, a work area with an incredible view.”

THE KINDNESS BUSINESS MODEL IS HERE

The project is so successful so far, Pisanty is planning to export the business model and welcome farmhouses in other countries to the program. “Our model takes its cue from the ‘Pleasurable Surprises: A Cross-Cultural Study of Consumer Responses to Unexpected Incentives’ research that demonstrates the beneficial effects of surprise on consumer choice.” The findings indicate the element of surprise, combined with delight, pleasure, joy or elation increases both customer loyalty and positive word-of-mouth. “The package purchase requests are multiplying rapidly, and so are the additional incomes for the hosting farmhouses. Our goal is to spread this kind and disruptive model in Italy and abroad, since we are convinced that kindness is the key for a new business era. Furthermore, we want to convince as many farmhouses as possible that the pandemic has demonstrated that, when the hospitality industry faces a crisis, farmhouses must rely on its other line of business—agriculture,” declares Pisanty.

In my next blog post, we visit the islands of Sicily and Sardinia and explore some interesting ways to truly connect with the land and the locals. Sustainable and real, the Slow Travel movement is synonymous with southern Italy.