From the pages of a travel editor’s diary
I had never been to Florence. I calculated that in my lifetime I had gone to Italy a dozen times but somehow never to the birthplace of the Italian language and the cradle of the Renaissance. It wasn’t for lack of trying yet somehow, Florence always eluded me (an unfathomable and gross misdemeanour for this Italian language and literature major) … Until recently.
When I received the invitation to participate in a luxury gastronomy and wine press tour of Florence and Tuscany, we were in the thick of lockdown life. The idea of finally seeing Florence elated me nonetheless, and although the trip got postponed three times over the past year and a half (due to the plague that shall go unnamed at this point), the mere thought of it got me through many a monotonous night during strict stay-at-home orders.
“I booked the flight for Florence, assured that this 13th trip to Italy was the charm.””
Finally, the press tour got the green light for early fall 2021 and, despite a bit of post-lockdown trauma and anxiety on my part to travel abroad in this new world, I booked the flight for Florence, assured that this 13th trip to Italy was the charm. To think my first visit to Florence would coincide with the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante Alighieri—there was some inexplicable force that finally brought me there, and boy, was it worth the wait!
I combined some much-needed, pent-up vacation time with the five-day press tour where I happily reconnected with friends and family, saw new places and met new people during my travels. In this blog post however, I am going to stick to the time in Tuscany, which far exceeded any preconceived notions I had of the region. Mostly, it was like walking in a postcard and dreaming in stereo while perfectly awake.
I am almost certain that anyone who has visited Italy has been to Florence and/or the region by now so bear with me as I unleash my unbridled enthusiasm for the place. So without further a due, here is a glimpse inside a Travel Editor’s press tour itinerary who finally got the opportunity to actually travel.
First view of Florence from the plane
DAY 1, OCTOBER 8, 2021— FLORENCE
HOTEL: ANTICA TORRE, VIA DE’ TORNABUONI NO. 1
I checked into this exquisite hotel just after 4 in the afternoon, a short 38-minute train ride from Bologna where I spent two days of fun and food in the gastronomic capital. Let’s just say I got a head start on the eating marathon I was about to indulge in.
Welcome cocktails on the roof terrace of this grand romantic hotel, just steps from the Santa Trinita’ bridge, the five-star luxury greets you at the door. L’Antica Torre has a timeless elegance, understated yet the warmth of its high-end hospitality made me feel instantly at home.
I met the international press group along with our gracious host & general manager of the hotel. Here the panoramic views of Florence stop you in your tracks. I had many pinch-me moments during the trip and this was certainly one of them. After drinks and getting to know the group we were about to spend five full days with, we went inside the medieval tower and shared the first of many delectable meals and extraordinary Tuscan wines over the next five days.
DAY 2, OCTOBER 9, ANTICA TORRE FLORENCE
Morning tour of the Antica Torre, followed by a guided tour of some of the cultural landmarks by Lucia Montuschi, Founder of Exclusive Connection.
A free afternoon, which happily coincided with a visit with my cousins who came from Calabria for the weekend. What a treat it was to see my family after many months of lockdown…I didn’t even enter a mall in Toronto since March 2020 and there I was enjoying an afternoon in magical Florence with them! Life is full of surprises…extraordinary ones sometimes.
Aperitivo time, the press group met back at the hotel roof terrace for an Italian cocktail lesson, and a four-course dinner at the Antica Torre dining room. TUTTO OTTIMO!
DAY 3, october 10, MONTERoSOLA WINE TOUR, VOLTERRA
CHECK-IN AT HOTEL LE FONTANELLE SPA RESORT, Castelnuovo BerardengA, SIENA
After a 90-minute drive from Florence, we arrived at the Monterosola Wine estate. Greeted by endless rolling hills and enchanting woodlands, the majestic five-storey stone property is just a short drive from San Gimignano. Privately owned by the Thomaeus family from Sweden, the contemporary winery combines traditional wine making with innovative sustainable practices that ensure the health of the land and future harvests. We were treated to a sampling of their award-winning wines served with a light lunch, and we were back on the road towards Hotel Le Fontanelle Spa Resort, located in the idyllic Chianti countryside. Centred around an immaculately restored 13th century borgo, the grand stone villa rests on a hillside overlooking olive groves and vineyards and breathtaking views at every turn. I was thrilled to settle into my suite and recharge for a few hours before our group dinner that evening. A rustic charm melds perfectly with the contemporary design details that offer the full luxury experience…and those exceptional vistas from my window are forever imprinted in my memory as the ultimate retreat.
DAY 4 OCTOBER 11, HOTEL LE FONTANELLE
Morning tour of the hotel and then we were on the road again to tour the hotel’s partner winery, Vallepicciola, located in the heart of the Chianti Classico area. Ultra modern, state-of-the-art facility, I was taken aback by a small church on the grounds, where the grapes used to make Vin Santo hang inside. Such a poetic metaphor that this “holy wine” prospers in an old repurposed church, don’t you think?
The tour ended with a sampling of 14 different wines, (yes, you read that correctly) and a light lunch at Vallepicciola…did I mention this all happened on the day of Canadian Thanksgiving? I am hoping this can be the start of a new tradition…I am very thankful after all for the San Giovese grape.
A quick transport back to the Hotel Le Fontanelle, we then headed off to the farm, Le Pietre Vive di Monteaperti for a group cooking class with Nonna Ciana. She knows her stuff and doesn’t suffer fools…We learned how to prepare traditional Tuscan dishes like fresh homemade tagliatelle, and Nonna set us straight any time we veered from her instructions on how to execute excellence in the kitchen. The dogma was worth it as we all enjoyed a delicious meal from primo to dessert with a nice bottle of Chianti Castello delle Quattro Torra. Allegria!
DAY 5, OCTOBER 12, DIMORA PALANCA, FLORENCE
HOTEL: DIMORA PALANCA, VIA DELLA SCALA 72
After a morning tour of a new property in construction set to launch next spring at Le Fontanelle…(stay tuned), it was sad to say goodbye to the peaceful oasis of Chianti Classico country. Maybe I am a country girl after all? At least Tuscan country…Another 90-minute drive back to Florence, I slept half the way there—blame it on all the carbs and wine—I woke up and was delighted to be back in Florence in this 19th century restored villa, freshly renovated and opened just a few months ago in August. The design of the Dimora Palanca is a celebration of modern form and function yet also pays homage to exquisite classical design details like high ceilings and herringbone patterned flooring. And oh the frescoes! There is so much to say on this front, I am dedicating my next blog post on the design and architecture of the two hotels in Florence I stayed in…NB. The Antica Torre and the Dimora Palanca were the bookends of the press tour and warrant their own article, which will also be featured in the winter issue of Panoram Italia.
Semi-rested from the drive, I pampered myself in the beautiful suite which had a view of the stunning private garden. I dressed up and fussed a little more that last evening dinner with my press tour peeps. And I finally got a chance to wear my newly acquired Go-Go boots that I bought during my Italian vacation time in Le Marche pre-press tour (that’s another blog post for another time).
We had an eight course fine dining experience in the hotel’s Mimesi Restaurant headed by Chef Giovanni Cerroni. Each dish was a sensorial journey melding traditional Tuscan cuisine with brilliant innovation.
day 6, october 13 CHECK-OUT FROM DIMORA PALANCA
A DELICIOUS BREAKFAST AND GOODBYE TO THE AMAZING SHARON OF ARTHOUR PR & THE WONDERFUL GROUP OF INTERNATIONAL WRITERS, EDITORS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS
When you’re happy and you know it! I know I look like I am belting out an Ethel Merman tune here…if you don’t know her, maybe my fellow Canuck, Celine Dion singing, My Heart Will Go On, is a better reference…
Suffice to say, this was a trip of a lifetime and I am so happy I didn’t let post lockdown stress disorder (PLSD) stand in the way of finally seeing Florence and Tuscany. It was an added bonus to have shared the experience with this special group of talented people.
Miss you and hope to meet up again one day soon. Alla prossima!