A terrain rich in history, breathtaking nature and a bountiful harvest make autumn the perfect time for a getaway in the Tuscan countryside
Set amidst the rolling hills of Chianti, overlooking olive groves and vineyards, Hotel Le Fontanelle is an immaculately restored country retreat with breathtaking views at every turn. An unending feast for the eyes from when you drive up the winding road to when you arrive at the enchanting property, the location is unbeatable. However, when Milanese owner Giuseppina Bolfo purchased the property in 1999, the grand stone villa on the hillside sat in an abandoned 13th century hamlet. The revitalization of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in grand part, is thanks to her vision and the impeccable restoration of the Medieval villa, which ultimately breathed new life into the deserted village over the past few decades and brought a renewed and vibrant energy to the heart of Chianti.
View of Hotel Le Fontanelle from the botanic garden
With unwavering dedication and passion, Bolfo lovingly brought the Medieval villa back to life, retaining many of its original architectural features such as the brick arches, ancient porticoes, stone columns and al fresco terraces. “It took seven years to renovate, and the official opening of Hotel Le Fontanelle was on July 1st, 2006,” says general manager of the family-owned luxury resort, Phoebe Farolfi.
Every detail honours the hotel’s rich heritage with artwork, fine linens and accessories, all handpicked by the owner. Farolfi says even the name, Le Fontanelle, is a nod to its history, as the country retreat on two hectares of land pays homage to the two original fountains still present in the courtyard.
Hotel Le Fontanelle, named after this ancient stone fountain still present on the grounds, is used to collect water from a spring
Interiors that celebrate history
With deep reverence for the villa’s noble history, many of the furnishings are still original and finished with opulent Italian linens. Combining effortless contemporary design with a sense of timeless sophistication, Bolfo’s objective was to create an uplifting guest experience. “Her desire was to create a five-star hotel that felt more like a home than a proper hotel,” says Farolfi. From the elegant suites to the common areas like the furnished lounge and library, subtle splashes of vibrant Chianti red contrast a soothing neutral palette that calms the senses, while sweeping views of the breathtaking countryside from every window or vantage point delight and inspire.
The richly patterned fabrics echo the colours of the botanical gardens and landscapes surrounding the hotel. “A guest certainly feels like they are immersed in a perfect Tuscan painting,” she admits, but beauty is not the only selling point. There are numerous repeat guests, which she attributes to the connection and trust between staff and guests and their innate ability to cater to everyone’s needs and desires.
That Tuscan touch
Luxury means different things to different people. Usually it’s not just one thing that stands out but the sum of many parts that creates that je-ne-sais-quoi feeling, elevating the nice-enough to a next-level experience. “Guests feel pampered upon their arrival at the hotel and throughout their entire stay,” says Farolfi.
Beyond the lush grounds that ensconce the property comprised of more than 350 plant, tree and shrub species, shaded pergolas provide an excellent resting spot for reading or some much coveted time for dolce far niente with unforgettable views. The beautifully landscaped gardens include a 132-square-metre swimming pool for warmer days and a 60-square-metre indoor tepidarium with arched windows facing the belvedere and vineyards. Health and wellness loom large in this corner of the world with access to a fitness centre and luxurious spa treatments with plant extracts to bring out a healthy glow.
Explore the region
Once rested and recharged, it’s time to venture out and explore the many sights conveniently located nearby. Just 20 kilometres from Hotel Le Fontanelle is the Medieval city of Siena, perfect for a day of sight-seeing, shopping and lunch in one of the many bars and restaurants along Piazza del Campo. Once you have had your fill of stunning Gothic architecture and frescoes, you can get back to nature and get some exercise while breathing in the beauty of the Tuscan countryside. Hit the hiking trails or choose between bikes or electric bikes. Take a gourmet picnic basket the hotel chef prepares for guests, complete with blanket and a chilled bottle of wine to complement the al fresco meal. Hotel Le Fontanelle organizes horse-riding and hot-air ballooning excursions for guests too. But perhaps the pièce de resistance is the private helipad on the grounds. It’s an extraordinary VIP way to see the region’s many hidden and less accessible landmarks where you can spend a day on the coast and indulge in a Michelin-starred lunch or simply enjoy the beauty of Chianti’s unique and celebrated landscape in true luxury.
Tuscan cuisine
After a day of adventure, the culinary excellence continues at La Colonna, the fine-dining restaurant named after the stone column sitting in the centre of the restaurant. Naturally, chef Francesco Ferrettini prepares the best of Tuscan fare offering delectable dishes based on what is in season.
Scallops served on a purée of peas at La Colonna restaurant inside the Hotel Le Fontanelle
When in Tuscany, you might as well learn to cook like a local. The hotel will happily set up a cooking class in a traditional farmhouse with Nonna Ciana, where we were personally shown how to make tagliatelle and actively prepared a full-blown meal from primo to dessert. We then enjoyed the fruits of our labour with her and the press group in the kitchen at the farm, Le Pietre Vive di Monteaperti. It was during this bread-breaking moment that I realized this was my Thanksgiving Sunday meal—enjoying life to the fullest with this group of people I had just met a few days before in Florence, here in this rustic, idyllic setting under the Tuscan sun.
Thankful for the Sangiovese grape
Last, but certainly not least, it is your moral obligation to visit at least one (if not many) wineries. We visited two—MonteRosola, an ultra-modern and sustainably run vineyard with award-winning wines in the Volterra region, and Vallepicciola, a 6,000-square-metre state-of-the-art winery masterminded by the Bolfo family and part of Le Fontanelle estate. The wine tours were the bookends to the impromptu Thanksgiving weekend away from home. It is worth repeating: I am truly thankful for the Sangiovese grape, which is the main protagonist in the blend that produces smooth, velvety varieties of Chianti, for which this wine region is known. It is quite simply superlative Tuscany in a glass. From our private tour of the cellars, to stepping inside a church where the grapes used for the famous Vin Santo hang to dry to the samplings of all 12 wines complete with tastings of their locally produced olive oil, honey and Tuscan salumi and cheeses…Seriously, when asked which wine or winery was my favourite, I simply cannot choose when the entire experience was an exercise in excellence.
But don’t take my word for it. Farolfi attests to Vallepicciola’s success with the first awards bestowed on the Mordese Cabernet Franc only six years after their first production in 2016, and most recently winning the Decanter Gold Medal in 2021 for their Chianti Classico Riserva 2018.
After 16 years from its opening, suffice to say, the pulsating heart behind Hotel Le Fontanelle, Giuseppina Bolfo, has far exceeded her original vision of the abandoned hamlet and is widening the scope with the recent opening of a new ultra-luxury five-star property geared toward wellness-minded guests. The Club House, designed especially for adults, offers 15 luxurious rooms, a holistic spa, The Wellness Sanctuary, exquisite classic Italian cuisine at Osteria Il Tuscanico and a blind culinary experience. at Il Visibilio. Additional exclusive services include: panoramic outdoor swimming pool, gym, tennis courts, driving range with Pitch & Putt course and an electric car-charging station.
Retreat. Relax. Revive. This is the mantra at The Club House, the ultra luxury resort that recently opened on the Fontanelle estate.
What was once a small rural village has been transformed into a dream oasis for the traveller in search of the real essence of Chianti. While every season offers its own special kind of magic— from the romanticism of a blooming spring to the lazy lizards of summer—the cooler days of fall are ideal to stimulate the taste buds and heighten all the senses. Whichever time of year you decide to go, italophiles with a passion for high-quality food and fine wine are promised a singular sumptuous experience in this famed picturesque part of Tuscany where the extraordinary beauty of its gentle landscape invites the restorative power of nature to soothe the soul and fill your heart with gratitude.
I may have been far from home and had a different kind of Thanksgiving but I can assure you that my October weekend experience captured its true meaning.
Hotel Le Fontanelle is open from April to the end of October.
For more information, go to www.fontanellestate.com/
Winding roads in the Tuscan countryside at sunset
IMAGES COURTESY OF HOTEL LE FONTANELLE, MONTEROSOLA
& MY PERSONAL COLLECTION